If the roots of a clematis threaten to burst the bucket, repotting can no longer be put off. The following aspects are important for the clematis to seamlessly continue its glamorous performance in the new planter.
Repot at the right time
Since the change to a new planter for the clematis proves to be extremely tiring, a day during the winter sap dormancy is ideal for this measure. In early spring, the clematis has shed all of its foliage. The new growing season has not yet started, so now is the best time to report.
The new pot ideally has a diameter that is at least 10 centimeters (4 inches) larger and an opening in the bottom for water drainage. So that the root ball can be more easily removed from the old tub, the clematis is not poured in the previous 2-3 days. Follow these steps to transplant:
- In the new bucket, lay a 5-8 cm (2-3 inches) high drainage on the bottom with gravel or broken pottery
- Fill in high-quality potting soil halfway up the pot and make a well in it with your fist
- Now repot the clematis, plant 5-7 cm (2-3 inches) deeper in the fresh substrate than before, and water well
- A pouring rim of 3-5 cm (1-2 inches) prevents the soil-water mixture from spilling over
- Spread out a layer of mulch made of pine bark, expanded clay or bark mulch
Proper care after repotting
In order for the clematis to root quickly in the new bucket, an adequate water supply is the focus of the care work. If you use pre-fertilized substrate, fertilize the clematis for the first time after 4-6 weeks at the earliest. As soon as the first tendrils sprout, they are attached to the integrated trellis or the climbing aid.
Traditional basic rules in the care of clematis have lost importance in view of the huge variety of varieties. The rule of thumb of the shaded foot no longer applies to every clematis.
For sun worshipers, such as Clematis texensis, this principle has a rather counterproductive effect. Wild species such as Clematis Alpina, on the other hand, warmly welcome shady underplanting.